'Mac' and Me



photo by L. Gatto-White

For many reasons, fall is my favourite time of year, not the least because it’s apple season and that just happens to be my favourite pie to make.  Lattice top, cheddar crust, crumb top, walnut butter- pastry or straight-up traditional, I love the ritual of making them, from going to the farmers’ market to  feast my eyes on their colourful display to getting them home, spilling them from the bag to inhale  the sudden waft of what to me is quintessentially autumn. Then polishing and displaying my treasure on the sideboard for a couple of days before baking, to simply admire.

Apple pie is more than just a dessert or mid-day snack, it is an iconic food; humble, simple and perfect, just like the apple itself. However, what  is not simple is the cook’s choice of fruit, there are many varieties to choose from and I’ve flirted with them all like the big-hearted firm Northern Spy (the russets of the  apple world), or the unassuming yellow-fleshed Courtland, the alluring green, tart Granny Smith, the crunchy stalwart Gravenstein, and the newcomer- flashy, long-storing  Honey crisp.

 But I inevitably return to my reliable stand-by, the ‘Mac’ or McIntosh.  When I want sweetness with just a kick of tartness and firmness with a little tender yield, I go to ‘Mac’.  It wasn’t always this way, the lady who graciously taught me how to make an apple pie had this to say about which was best “Spys for pies, Macs for snacks”, end of discussion. A succession of apple-pie aficionados I’ve baked with pretty much held firm on this, Macs are no good for baking; they fall apart too easily.

 I beg to differ, yes they will get mushy if you cut them into too small pieces, but I like an apple pie with good thick wedges in the filling, this allows the filling and bottom crust to cook long enough (I find most recipe’s cooking times much too short) to ensure it’s cooked and browned, not soggy and the thicker pieces of apple, therefore, stay nice and firm without dissolving into apple-sauce. Even though every pie cook, like me, has their favourite variety to which they are devoted  this Dutch Apple Pie recipe will work with any of them, just remember, if using ‘Macs’, make sure to cut them in ½ inch wedges for the best results.  Bon appétit!

Dutch Apple Pie

Ingredients: (one 9” pie)

For crust 

·         1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour

·         4 tbsp. Cold vegetable shortening

·         4 tbsp. Cold unsalted butter

·         ¼ tsp. salt

·         2-3 tbsp. Cold water

For crumb topping

·         ½  cup steel-cut or coarsely chopped whole oats

·         ½ cup flour

·         1/3 cup dark brown sugar

·         2 tbsp. Butter cut in ½”  pieces

·         1/3 cup walnut pieces (optional)

For filling

·         6 medium apples

·         2 tbsp. Lemon juice

·         Pinch of salt

·         ¼  tsp. Each: nutmeg, ground cloves

·         1 tsp. Cinnamon (or to taste)

·         1/3 cup full fat sour cream

Method:

·         To make crust, combine salt and flour in a food processor, cut shortening and butter in ½” pieces, add to flour

·         Process on ‘pulse’ until mixture is in kidney bean-sized crumbs, add 2 tbsp. water and pulse just until it comes together in a loose ball, if mixture is too dry add a little more water

·         Turn dough out onto a floured board and work it slightly to form a smooth firm ball, cover in plastic and rest in the fridge

·         Meanwhile, core peel and cut apples vertically into ½” wedges, place in a large bowl, add lemon juice and toss to coat pieces , add  the salt and spices, set apples aside to macerate

·         To make topping combine flour, oats and sugar in a small bowl

·         Add butter and toss to coat pieces, with your fingers, break-up the pieces into the mixture to form large crumbs, toss-in walnuts to combine

·         Preheat oven to 415

·         Turn chilled dough out onto well-floured board, and roll out in a 12” circle, transfer to cover pie plate evenly, trim and crimp overhang

·         Drain-off juices from the macerated apples into a small bowl, whisk-in sour cream

·         Arrange apples in concentric circles in the pie plate, pour over the sour cream mixture, shake pie lightly to settle the cream

·         Place pie on a baking sheet and bake for 15 mins. On middle rack

·         Remove pie from oven, reduce temperature to 375, sprinkle crumb topping evenly over pie and continue to bake for approx. 30 mins. or until edges are top are lightly browned and apples are tender, cool for 30 mins. before serving

a basket of wild heritage apples from Nova Scotia

photo by L. Gatto-White