Artichokes

by Loretta Gatto-White

Artichokes are actually thistles, having spiky leaves tightly arranged around a fuzzy purple, inedible inner choke. Their edible parts being the stalk to within two inches of the base or heart, the prized heart itself and the tender bases of the leaves, the exception being the very tiny tender  variety, ‘baby anzio’ enjoyed whole in Italy in the spring. Many of the new world varieties are hybrids of  Italian species and no wonder, Italians love them and have cultivated them for centuries.

In Italy, artichokes traditionally feature as part of the spring religious celebrations of Passover and Easter accompanying fish or lamb. One popular dish,  Carciofi alla Giudia, (artichokes in the Jewish style), originated in Rome’s 16^th century Jewish ghetto where the artichokes are cooked twice  in olive oil; first to blanch, then to crisp  them, the leaves of the heads opened -out to look  like late autumn sunflowers.  My lighter version of this dish omits the first blanching in oil, cooking them in acidulated water instead, then to make them crisp, the heads are fried in olive oil. If you use the large globe artichokes as the recipe indicates, you may serve them as a light lunch with dressed greens and some lemon garlic aioli on the side to dip the leaves, or if choosing a smaller variety, you can serve them as an antipasto, or a contorno on a platter with lemon slices, surrounding a roast of lamb. 

Serve with white wines such as a brut Champagne, Prosecco and Chablis or if you are serving artichokes with a roast lamb, try Italian reds with a good balance of fruit and acid such as Barbero or Dolcetto.   

*For more of my article on artichokes see the Feb/March (Toronto edition) of Panoram Italia at www.panoramitalia.com a free online Canadian magazine about living 'Italian-style'

Carciofi alla Giudia by L. Gatto-White

Carciofi alla Giudia

Ingredients: (serves four)

·         4 large globe artichokes

·         2 lemons

·         Kosher salt  and fresh pepper (to taste)

·         1 ¾  cups olive oil (not extra-virgin) or sunflower oil     

Preparation:

Select a deep saucepan just wide enough to accommodate the artichokes. Fill halfway with cold water; add a half teaspoon of salt and the juice of one lemon.

Remove the first three rows of outer- leaves from the artichokes by pulling them downward, leaving their tender bases attached to the head. Then using a paring knife or scissors, cut off the dark green upper-half from the remaining leaves, rotating the artichoke as you go. Remove the top third of each head and the fuzzy inner choke with the knife or a grapefruit spoon. Peel the stalk up and over the base. Add each artichoke to the lemon water as you go, to prevent browning.

Bring the artichokes in the water to a steady boil. Cover the pot loosely.  Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with paper towels and set a cake rack over it. After twenty minutes, pierce the base of a couple of artichokes with a fork, if it penetrates easily they are done, if not return to the boil and check at frequent intervals. When done they should be tender yet firm.

Place artichokes head down on the rack, squeeze each gently to remove excess water. Then gently spread their leaves open. Clean and dry the saucepan, add the olive oil and heat to 370 degrees.  Using long-handled tongs, slowly place each artichoke head down in the hot oil, being very careful as the water retained in the artichoke will make the oil spatter. When crisp and golden, drain the artichokes on the rack. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, serve warm with lemon slices.

                                                Mama Mia

There’s an early twentieth century acrostic poem that goes:

 M is for the million things she gave me

 O  is that she’s only growing old

 T  is for the tears she shed to save me etc… (You get the idea)

Pretty quaint and archaic sentiments in this age of ‘Yummy Mummies’ and Desperate Housewives. The only ‘Madonna’ these sentiments might apply to in popular culture are Mother Theresa and Gaia; the former being a sainted Calcutta missionary, the latter our own ‘mother earth’ who is beleaguered by abuse, beset by bad press, universally misunderstood and very toxic; bet she’d love to check-in to rehab with Britney Spears.

Meanwhile, back on earth most mothers work outside of the home, but still perform most of the domestic duties in a two-parent household. Wage disparity has actually widened between men and women over the last decade, and the majority of those living at or below the poverty line are single mothers and their children.

Despite the scarcity of community and material resources available to struggling single mothers, the one important resource available to their children that is the least vulnerable to society’s indifference and politician’s whims is love; but it is not endlessly renewable. Like Gaia, beleaguered mothers can only give so much before they themselves are depleted. Mothers need love, care and understanding too.

So, if your mother is within your reach this Mother’s Day, hug her and hold her close. If she, like mine, is beyond your grasp, take a quiet walk in the woods, listen to the free-running water, smell the spice-box of the warming earth, and when no one’s looking…hug the nearest tree.

                                                Happy Mother’s Day!

This is a great dish to serve Mom as an elegant breakfast or brunch and is easily made by a vigilant adult and as many enthusiastic kids as you happen to have on hand.

                                                  Croissant Quiche (for 4)

photo by L. Gatto-White

You can either opt for a simple cheese filling or use 4 oz. of one of the following:

          Smoked salmon, cooked crab or lobster, ham, cooked chopped spinach,       

        Sautéed mushrooms

Other Ingredients:

-         4 croissants, cut in half horizontally

-         4 ounces grated Swiss cheese

-         2 tbsp. chopped chives

-         1 tbsp. chopped fresh dill

-         ¼ tsp. salt & pepper

-         dash of Tabasco sauce

-         5 eggs

-         2 cups 18% cream

Method:

-         preheat oven to 355

-         cut the bottom half of the croissants in 1” cubes (little hands that can’t handle a knife can easily tear croissant into small pieces)

-         whisk together eggs, cream and seasonings

-         stir-in herbs, cheese, desired filling, and croissant cubes

-         pour into 8” square casserole

-         arrange top half of croissants over filling, press lightly to absorb mixture

-         at this point, you can cover it and refrigerate overnight, or bake immediately, uncovered,  for approx. 45 mins. until firm, puffed & golden

‘Twas Two Weeks Before Christmas

‘Twas two weeks before Christmas as I lay in my bed,

The question of dinner nagged in my head 

My cookbooks were stacked on the night stand with care,

In hopes inspiration might soon be found there

When what to my wondering eyes should appear,

But the ‘Ghost of Christmas Feasts From Past Years’

Upon fragrant steam it arose, and wafted quite near,

 To whisper “Braised Veal Shanks!” right in my ear

The apparition was really quite firm on the matter,

 “In Christmas ‘98 they looked great on the platter.”

Roused from my slumber I jumped-up and shouted

On with Braised Veal Shanks, and Tarragon Mash !

Winter Vegetables Roasted in Orange Honey–just a dash!

Now Portobellos, in their own juices with butter

Would make all the company contented and mutter “mmm…”

“What’s the next course?” they’d say

Why, it’s Maple Syrup-Poached Pears in Bourbon Crème Brulee

***

Braised Veal Shoulder or Shank     

The muscular parts of beef, like the shoulder and shanks – a portion of the lower leg, are less expensive and more succulent and flavourful than tenderloins and racks. When braised, which is cooking the ingredients close to the liquid ( i.e. half covered opposed to immersed as in stewing) on a low simmer for a couple of hours, the results are so tender as to be cut with a spoon, and are bathed in an unctuous glaze formed by the braising liquid and meat juices melded with the flavourful gelatin from the bone: heaven on a platter.

Serves six

Ingredients:

Note: when purchasing lamb or veal shanks, make sure they’re hind shanks which are meatier than front shanks, and ask the butcher to remove the silver skin.

• Two 3- 4lb. veal shanks or a 6lb. shoulder roast (bone in)
• 6 ozs. pancetta diced
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 4 shallots finely diced
• 2 tbsp. prepared whole grain mustard
• ½  - 28 oz. can crushed plum tomatoes in their juice
• 2  cups Noilly-Pratt dry white vermouth
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary finely chopped
• 1 tsp. each: coarse black pepper, kosher salt
• 1 ½   tsps. olive oil

Method:

• In a large frying pan, warm the oil over medium-high heat, season the shanks or roast with half the salt and pepper and brown well in the oil
• Remove meat from pan, add pancetta , rosemary, garlic, and shallots, sauté until soft
• Add mustard and wine, simmer for 5 mins., then add tomatoes and their juice, simmer for 5 mins. more
• Add remaining salt and pepper
• Preheat  oven to 400, place meat in a roasting pan or clay baker, pour over the tomato and wine sauce, add the thyme sprigs, cover pan with foil or lid
•  Place in preheated oven for 10 mins. then reduce heat to 350
• Turn meat and baste every 30 mins, if it seems dry, add a little more wine
• Cook for 3 hrs. until meat has shrunk from the bone and is very tender
• Before serving, remove from oven, uncover and baste with pan juices to glaze, rest for 15 mins., serve with pan juices 

Roasted Portobellos (for six)

Take six large Portobello mushroom caps, smear lightly in olive oil, place gill-side down in an oven-proof dish, lay several sprigs of thyme on top, cover with foil and roast in a 350 oven for 30 mins. Remove thyme and mushrooms (reserve pan juices) slice caps cross-wise in ¼” slices, add 1 tbsp. butter, a pinch of salt and pepper to pan, return mushrooms and coat in pan sauce, serve around meat.

Celeriac and Tarragon Mashed Potatoes 

Ingredients: (for six)

• 5 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
• ½ medium celery (celeriac) root, peeled and diced
• 150 ml. 35% cream
• 4 sprigs fresh tarragon, roughly chopped
• 1 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 tbsp. butter

Method:

• In a large pot place potatoes and celeriac, add salt and enough water to cover
• Cook over medium-high heat until tender -20 mins.
• Reserve 1 cup of cooking water, then drain vegetables,
•  return to pot off heat and mash, adding back some reserved water to smoothen
• Blend in cream, taste, adjust seasoning and dot with the butter
• Keep warm in oven while veal is resting, fold-in chopped tarragon just before serving 

Honey-Orange Roasted Winter Vegetables 

photo by L. Gatto-White

Ingredients: (for six)

• 5 each : medium carrots and parsnips, peeled and quartered (or leave them whole if small, and double the amount)
• 12 medium Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
• 8 large shallots peeled and halved
• ½   large orange (unpeeled) sliced thinly, seeds removed
• Juice remaining ½  orange
• ½  cup pure honey
• 2 tbsp. butter
• 1 tbsp. toasted cumin seeds
• 1 tsp. each:  kosher salt and pepper 

• Method: 
• Steam or microwave (in a little water) all the vegetables until they just begin to soften
• in a large bowl stir together honey, orange juice, and butter
• Add vegetables and cumin, toss to coat 
• spread vegetables and shallots out evenly in an oven proof dish, season with salt and pepper and add orange slices, cover.
• Roast at 365 until soft and caramelized, approx. 30 mins. 

                     Baked Maple-Poached Pears in Rum Zabaglione (Crème Brulee)

photo by L. Gatto-White

Unlike traditional zabaglione, my baked version is a loose custard sauce which requires less eggs than the firmer traditional version and also uses the egg whites to lighten the dish.

Ingredients : (for six)

• 3 firm pears such as Bosc, peeled , halved and cored
• 1 ½ cups 35% cream
• 1 tsp. vanilla extract
• 6 ozs. Jack Daniels or dark rum
• 3 eggs separated
• 2 ½  cups sugar
• 6 tbsp. maple syrup
• 3 tbsp. butter

Method:  (first 8 steps can be done 1 day ahead)

• In a large skillet, melt butter over medium heat
•  add maple syrup and 3 ozs. of bourbon, raise heat to med-high, stir for 4-5 mins. until mixture begins to thicken
• Add pear halves, cut side down, caramel should be lightly bubbling
• Turn pears until brown and coated with caramel
• Remove from heat, cool and store pears in caramel in refrigerator or cool place
• To make custard sauce, scald cream with vanilla extract and remaining 3 ozs. of bourbon
• Cool cream slightly while beating yolks with  ¾ cups sugar until thick
• Gradually beat in warm cream to yolks, beat constantly to prevent curdling, and incorporate  all of the cream, cover and reserve in refrigerator
• beat egg whites with ¼ cup sugar and fold into cooled cream
• to serve, preheat broil, place pears, cut side up in a gratin dish, drizzle with caramel , spoon over cream, sprinkle with ½ cup sugar and place directly under broil until sugar just begins to burn, remove and cool for 2 minutes before serving.

Consider the Cranberry

Yes, let’s consider this pretty, native fruit for more than just a sweet jammy condiment to turkey once or twice a year; its popularity as a beverage is on the rise and its culinary value should increase as well. It’s a relatively inexpensive, local product that is available fresh in the fall and frozen all year with a nice tart taste that complements pork, game and fowl. It’s high in antioxidants, is useful in treating urinary tract infections, some stomach ulcers and gum disease!

That’s a lot of work for a little berry. I have also discovered that they are wonderful in baking, and to prove the point I’ve adapted a basic carrot cake recipe to increase its nutrional value, decrease saturated fat, refined flour and sugar while improving taste and texture. The first thing I did was to replace the canned pineapple with fresh cranberries (frozen work equally well), substituted extra-virgin olive oil for the butter, cut back the sugar by 75%, and deleted the white all-purpose flour using a mix of unbleached and whole wheat flours, and flax meal.

The extra-virgin olive oil not only improves the flavour and texture of the batter, it is high in anti-oxidants (omega3 fatty acids) and lowers LDL or ‘bad’ cholesterol, raises the HDL or ‘good’ cholesterol and contains Vitamin E. Do not be tempted to substitute another vegetable oil, the flavour and nutritional benefits will be lost; likewise, extra-virgin olive oil is superior in its nutrients, flavour and viscosity to more processed, less purer forms such as virgin, pure or light olive oil.

In the dry ingredients, I consider the most important improvement to be the use of flax meal (which is ground flax seed). Linum usitatissimum, to use its botanical name meaning ‘most useful’, lives up to its reputation as it has since ancient times been used for cloth to make sails, sheets and shrouds, furniture oil, paints and polishes, intestinal medicaments and flour for baking; which is where I come in. Flax meal is recommended for lowering LDL cholesterol and is most efficacious in its ground form making its nutrients easily absorbed by our bodies, something the whole seed is not. Flax imparts a nice nutty flavour and its oils add moisture to batter or dough (it makes a very pretty garden plant as well). Also, the use of unbleached flour and whole wheat instead of white flour enhances the nutrient and fiber content.

Trimming the refined white sugar by 75%, but retaining natural sugars in the grated carrot lowers the calorie content and improves nutrition, especially as carrots are high in antioxidants, pro-vitamin A and carotenes; all of which are responsible for improved night vision, and protection against macular degeneration and cataracts.  So, try this recipe and enjoy the moist cake, tart cranberries and like your mother said, “Eat your carrots!”.

Since holiday season is drawing near, I have included this simple recipe for cranberry stuffed brie encroute (pictured) using frozen pizza dough, much less fatty than the puff-pastry version, easy to make and deliciously sumptuous and tangy to eat.

                                                        Cranberry-Carrot Muffins

                                          (makes 12 medium muffins or a 10” round cake)

Ingredients:

·         3 medium carrots, grated

·         2 cups fresh or frozen whole cranberries (if using frozen thaw and drain well)

·         3 eggs, lightly beaten

·         ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

·         1tsp. vanilla extract

·         4 tbsp. brown sugar

·         2 tsp baking soda and I tsp. baking powder

·         ½ tsp. salt

·         ½ cup whole wheat flour

·         1 ¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

·         generous ½  cup flax meal

·         1 ½ tsp. of cinnamon

Method:  (this batter is best mixed by hand)

• Preheat oven to 350
• grease and flour 10” round cake pan or medium muffin pan for 12
• combine eggs, vanilla, and olive oil in a small bowl
• combine all dry ingredients in a large bowl and whisk together
• add egg mixture to dry ingredients, stirring lightly to combine-do not beat! Mixture will be gooey at this stage.
• fold-in carrots, then cranberries
• spoon batter into prepared cake pan, or using an ice cream scoop, fill each well in the muffin tin (this method works brilliantly, one level scoop per muffin)
• bake for approx 25 mins., on centre rack, until a toothpick inserted in centre comes out clean

Cranberry Filled Brie Encroute

Ingredients:

·         One 450 gram wheel of brie

·         1 pkg. frozen pizza dough (thawed)

·         1 ½ cups fresh cranberries

·         ¼ cup white wine

·         1 sprig rosemary

·         1 tbsp. Honey

Method:

·         Combine cranberries, honey, rosemary and wine in a shallow saucepan, cover and cook over medium-high heat for 2 mins., stir, then cover and cook for  2-3 mins. more, until the cranberries begin to soften and the mixture thickens – do not overcook, the cranberries should retain some shape

·         Remove from heat, discard rosemary and chill mixture in refrigerator

·         Preheat oven to 375, line a heavy baking tray with parchment paper

·         Roll dough-out on a well floured board to a circle large enough to wrap the brie and be approx. ½” thick, too thin and the cheese will leak-out during cooking

·          rest dough on board

·         Cut brie in half, horizontally, remove top portion, place bottom in the middle of dough , spread cooled cranberry mixture to within ¼” of the edge, cover with  top portion

·         Carefully bring the edges of the dough up to cover the cheese snugly, do not stretch the dough

·          Gather the ends and twist them together and pinch closed, forming a purse, if there’s too much dough, trim-off excess

·         Carefully place brie on to prepared cooking tray, bake on the middle rack of the preheated oven for 15-20 mins., until dough puffs-up and browns lightly

·         Remove brie from oven and cut a few shallow steam-holes in the top, let cool for 15- 20 mins. before serving, the cheese will be runny, so serve in a slightly curved dish

photo by L. Gatto-White

 

Harvest Vegetable Pie

Harvest season brings out the best in the Maritimes; the weather is beautifully warm and sunny; flora in every woodlot, trail and ditch sport the reds, yellows and violets of autumn; the sweetness of late-ripening crops is intensified by the cool nights and light frosts; festivals and events, scarecrows and pumpkin people are born out of the creativity and enthusiasm in small towns and villages throughout the province. All these things warm and fortify us against the rigors of the coming winter.

One fall I was asked by the Hubbard’s Barn Farmer’s Market to participate in their Harvest Festival by creating dishes which highlight some of the vendor’s exceptional products which market-goers could sample and discuss for culinary inspiration. Of the two dishes I made, the Harvest Vegetable Pie with Goat Cheese Crust begged the most recipe requests.

Harvest Vegetable Pie has great vegetable taste because it hasn’t a sauce; its intense flavours come from the very finely sliced vegetables layered with a mixture of extra-virgin olive oil, finely diced red onion and fresh herbs encased in a no-fail goat or cream cheese crust. This pie is easy to make, the only specialized equipment you need is either a food-processor with a fine-slice blade, a box grater with a slice side, or a mandolin and a steady hand. This pie makes a great lunch or light dinner paired with soup and salad. Bon Appetit!

                                                    Harvest Vegetable Pie       

Ingredients:

Crust

·         1 1/3 cup all purpose flour

·         1/3 cup pastry flour 

·         1 ½ tsp. baking powder

·         1/3 cup cold butter, cubed

·         1 250 g. pkg. cream cheese or goat cheese  

·         ¼ tsp salt

Filling

The following 4 items are finely sliced vertically:

·         1 medium peeled sweet potatoe and 1 Yukon Gold potatoe

·         1 medium unpeeled zucchini

·         1 medium peeled parsnip or small turnip (optional)

·         2 roasted sweet peppers peeled, seeded and cut in 2” slices

·         1 medium red onion and 1 clove garlic  finely diced

·         ½ cup finely chopped green herbs, parsley, basil etc.

·         2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil (don’t substitute)

·         ¼ tsp each salt and black pepper

·         3 tbs. breadcrumbs

·         1 egg, lightly beaten

Method:

·         place all dry ingredients, and butter in food processor

·         pulse until coarse

·         add cheese and a few drops of water, pulse until mixture forms a ball (add a little more water if needed)

·         knead lightly and chill for 30 mins.

·         preheat oven to 400

·         toss vegetables in oil

·         combine onion, garlic, herbs and seasoning

·         roll-out enough dough to line an 8” cake pan or spring-form

·         layer vegetables beginning with potatoe, sprinkling each layer lightly with breadcrumbs and onion –herb mixture

·         roll-out dough for top crust, seal edges with beaten egg, crimp, slash steam holes and wash with remaining egg

·         cook for approx 30 mins., pierce with skewer to check for tenderness

Tin Can Scarecrows-Mahone Bay